New Yorkers are a resilient bunch with much pride in their city. The bombing in Chelsea on September 17 would not deter them from carrying on. The bombing occurred only two days into the ten-day San Gennaro Festival in Little Italy, but it didn’t keep the crowds from coming. That’s good because it’s an important year for the festival–its 90th anniversary.
September 19 is the feast day of San Gennaro and that is the day organizers celebrated with a mass and procession from the doors of the Most Precious Blood Church on Baxter Street around Canal Street and up through Mulberry Street.
Most Precious Blood Church
This year’s grand marshal was Joe Causi. A Bronx Tale‘s Chazz Palminteri also made an appearance at the festival. (Tony Danza was the grand marshal of the parade last year, but this year, I had my second run-in with the actor. I was shopping in Alleva Dairy, the country’s oldest Italian cheese store, when a man said, “Excuse me, ma’am,” and brushed past me. It was Tony. Years ago, I ran into him on Bleecker Street and I asked for a photo to which he rudely said no.)
Before Mass, I pinned a dollar on the statue of San Gennaro and got a pamphlet about him as well as a pin and prayer card. Inside the church, there is a large presepio (Nativity scene) from Naples on display.
Street vendors sell everything from American food to fair festival food like roasted corn,
to pizza and cannoli
to Italian tchotchkes
to traditional Italian foods like these Italian cookies, taralli, mostaccioli and biscotti.
I ate at Sal’s Pizza on Broome near Mulberry for pizza, sausage and broccoli rape. At Sal’s, you get a side order of pasta with your entree, the traditional way.
For dessert, some cassata and coffee at Caffe Palermo.
Posted in America, Cannoli, Fair, Festival, Italian, New York, News, Pasta, Pizza, Restaurant
Tagged biscotti, Caffe Palermo, cannoli, festival, Little Italy, Most Precious Blood Church, Mulberry Street, New York, New York City, pizza, presepio, procession, Sal's Pizza, San Gennaro, San Gennaro Festival, taralli
If you are visiting Napoli, these are the 10 must-try foods that I recommend. There are so many wonderful dishes, foods, fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, seafood, etc that come from Naples or the Campania region. It’s hard to narrow it down to ten. But the average travelers don’t have an Italian nonna to cook local dishes for them nor do they have access to a refrigerator to buy groceries for themselves. So I compiled this list with the vacationer in mind. I think these foods are the best for visitors to try.
- Pizza–In the birthplace of pizza, there are many places to try the city’s favorite dish. Neapolitan pizza is different from American-style and New York-style pizza. If you prefer the crispy crust of a New York-style pizza, you may not like Neapolitan pizza. However, the ingredients on Neapolitan pies are usually top notch. A trendy place to try is Sorbillo. My favorite was Vesi, although I liked Da Michele too.
Da Michele pizza
- Sfogliatelle–A Neapolitan pastry that can be eaten for breakfast or dessert. It’s a popular one in Italian-American bakeries. The sfogliatelle is a difficult pastry to tackle and master–not one for the home cook. You must try one from Antico Forno delle Sfogliatelle Calde Fratelli Attanasio, a bakery not far from the main train station. It is by far the best I’ve ever had. It comes hot from the oven. The thin layers are crisped to perfection for a wonderfully crunchy bite. The custard and cherry ones are a special treat too.
- Pizza portafoglio–This pizza is the perfect fast food. It is sold from carts outside pizzerias. It’s a personal-sized pizza folded in quarters. Unlike most Neapolitan pizza, this pizza is crispier and doesn’t have the “soggy” center. It also doesn’t have much cheese. But the taste is divine.
- Taralli–A crunchy ring of dough, taralli is Neapolitan snack food. It comes in sweet and savory varieties.
- Pizza fritta–Pizza fritta is a popular Italian-American snack too. It’s a fried calzone with a cheesy filling in the center. It is also sold from carts outside fry shops.
- Rum baba–This pastry can be seen all over Naples. It is also a popular pastry found at Italian-American bakeries in the United States.
- Neapolitan ragu–aka Sunday gravy in the United States. Ragu is a slow-simmered tomato-based meat sauce for pasta.
- Frolla–The frolla is the easier version of the sfogliatelle that can be baked by home cooks. Or just as easily bought at numerous cafes in the city.
- Gelato–There are many gelateria in Napoli. One of my favorites with multiple locations is Fantasi Gelati. There are many flavors to choose from. I liked the cioccolato–so rich–and fior di panna.
- Mozzarella–Try some mozzarella di bufala made from buffalo milk. Yes, this is available in the United States, but it loses something on its refrigerated trip here. It is absolutely creamy and wonderful fresh. You can order it as antipasto or in a Caprese salad.
Posted in Bakery, Dessert, Gelato, Italian, Mediterranean, Pasta, Pizza, Restaurant, Vegetarian
Tagged baba, calzone, foods, gelato, Naples, Napoli, pasta frolla, pizza, pizza fritta, portafoglio, ragu, sfogliatelle, taralli, travel
The owner of Di Matteo, Salvatore Di Matteo, comes from a long line of pizza makers. His pizzeria is a VPN member pizzeria and is touted by guidebooks and locals alike. Besides its pizza, the restaurant’s claim to fame is a visit from President Clinton. And in fact, a neighboring pizzeria owned by Di Matteo’s brother is named Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente in honor of Clinton.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get to try Salvatore Di Matteo’s pizza. He is also known for his fried snacks like pizza fritta, what we would call a fried calzone, that you can buy from the cart in front of the shop. According to Phaidon’s Where to Eat Pizza, Di Matteo assembles the pizza fritta himself. I love fried dough and fried calzones are my favorite (they shouldn’t be baked!). Of course, it was delicious.
Posted in Fried, Italian, Pizza, Restaurant
Tagged calzone, Di Matteo, Naples, Napoli, Neapolitan pizza, pizza fritta, President Clinton, VPN
In the United States, we order a pizza, usually a large, and share the slices. In Italy, pizzas are about the size of our small and are eaten by one person. In Naples, they have a “fast food” pizza called pizza portafoglio. Portafoglio is the word for “wallet,” so it means pizza that is folded like a wallet. It is sold from carts outside pizzerias.
Pizzerias in Naples also sell other fried items like calzones and arancini, so they are also called fry shops or friggitoria.
One of my cousins took us for a portafoglio pizza at Donna Sophia’s on Via Tribunali. It looks like it may be named after Sophia Loren, but besides the depiction that looks like her, I couldn’t find any evidence that she owns it. I think it’s just named after her because she sells pizza from a cart in the movie L’Oro di Napoli.
This pizza was one of my favorites in Naples. While it wasn’t the cheesiest, the crust was crispy with a good char.
My research on Neapolitan pizza in Naples led me to Da Michele and Sorbillo. Most of the guidebooks and online reviews and articles talk about these as well as a few others. My local cousins, however, took to me to their favorite spots. One is Vesi that I saw mentioned only in the Lonely Planet guidebook. It recommends going here only if Sorbillo is closed. My cousins said Vesi has been in business for about 100 years. Its website says since 1921. Vesi is a VPN member pizzeria. When we visited, it was busy, but there was no wait. While they have a menu with a lot of choices, I wanted to try the Margherita.
I would say this pizza closely resembles a New York-style pizza. While it was still a little wet in the middle, it wasn’t as much as the others. It could be lifted and eaten with the hands. There was more cheese than the other pizzas we sampled. The crust, cheese and sauce all had a good flavor.
I also tried a piece of my cousin’s calzone and it was delicious. Unlike Lonely Planet, I think Vesi pizza is better than a Plan B pizza–it clearly stands on its own and is worth a visit.
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele is the destination for pizza in Naples. It’s the Pepe’s of New Haven or the Di Fara of Brooklyn. Expect similar wait times too.
The Condurro family started making pizza in 1870. Michele Condurro opened his pizzeria in 1906 and it has been at its current location since 1930.
There are only two types of pizza served here, the Neapolitan classics, marinara and Margherita. The pizzeria’s website says it doesn’t use “junk” to make its pizza, only “natural” ingredients. Ed Levine, in his Pizza: A Slice of Heaven, says that the pizzeria uses “cheap oil.” This article from Vesuvio Live includes an interview with Francesco and Fabrizio Condurro who say they use a blend of vegetable, peanut and sunflower oils before they cook the pizza and then use olive oil on the pizza once it is cooked. They say they do this because, at high temperatures, the olive oil leaves a burned taste to the dough. In addition, they use fior di latte (cow’s milk) mozzarella. Fior di latte is cheaper than mozzarella di bufala, but I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s “cheap” or “bad” to use it. It is different and not as creamy or flavorful as bufala mozzarella, but it is still good.
Da Michele is highly recommended by locals. On my visit, there were a number of American tourists as well as Spanish-speaking tourists and locals as well. It is an experience similar to eating pizza in New Haven. When we arrived, there was already a crowd at the door. If you go inside the doorway, there is an attendant who gives out numbered tickets. Then you wait for your number to be called. It was a bit daunting to get a 42, but the line moves quickly. We waited for only 30 minutes. The numbers are called in Italian, of course, so it’s helpful to know your numbers. I was able to help some non-Italian-speaking Americans with their number. The attendant assigns tables as they become available, so we sat at our assigned table. Tables can be communal here due to the lines, so there was one older gentleman at our table who was a local.
history written in Neapolitan dialect
We ordered one of each pie. The marinara:
You can order the Margherita with extra cheese (doppio mozzarella) too. From these photos, you can see the nice bubbly char on the crust. Both pies had the proverbial wetness in the center, so we did have to use forks and knives. But the sauce, cheese and crust tasted good.
Posted in History, Italian, Pizza, Restaurant
Tagged Da Michele, L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Margherita, marinara, Naples, Napoli, Neapolitan pizza, pizza
Sorbillo pizza is highly recommended by Naples guidebooks as well as locals. Sorbillo has a VPN designation meaning that it is certified as true Neapolitan pizza. The pizzaiolo, Gino Sorbillo, is famous and has won awards in Italy for his pizza. From an internet search, it sounds as if he was opening or had plans to open a pizzeria in New York City’s Times Square as well.
Another New Yorker had Sorbillo pizza in Napoli too–NYC Mayor Bill de Blasio.
Before I write about Sorbillo, I need to mention my stance on Neapolitan pizza. Like food writer Ed Levine, I prefer coal-fired New York-style pizza like that of Lombardi’s, Grimaldi’s, etc. As Levine says, Neapolitan pizza tends to be soggy in the middle, a fact he attributes to the moisture in the tomatoes and cheese. Indeed, others say it is the moisture in good-quality mozzarella or from non-strained tomatoes. I attribute the wetness to the double zero flour not being strong enough to hold these ingredients. My cousins in Italy say the pizza should be wet, and they like it that way. I’m guessing it’s a sign that good ingredients are being used.
There are a few locations with the name Sorbillo right next door to each other on Via Tribunali, the main street in the Centro Storico district of Napoli. The one with the crowd outside is Gino’s store. According to Rick Steves, the other location belongs to Gino’s relatives.
My cousins said that you have to take a numbered ticket here, but the night we went that was not the case. Everyone just crowded the door until the restaurant opened and then it was every man or woman for herself to run to secure a table. No worries for me. My inner New Yorker came out, and it was lucky #7 for me.
People have described a rushed atmosphere, but I didn’t feel that at all.
We got a classic Margherita pizza. The outer edge of the pizza that you see is called the cornicione in Italy. It tends to be doughy on Neapolitan pizza.
We also got a “Patrizio”–with ramata onion from Montoro (cipolla ramata di Montoro from Irpinia) and the Alife onion (cipolla di Alife).
The onions on this pizza are out of this world. They have such a sweet, pure flavor unlike any onion I have tasted before. The ingredients on both pizzas are of high quality, and both were very good. But they do have the characteristic wetness of Neapolitan pizza.