In the United States, we order a pizza, usually a large, and share the slices. In Italy, pizzas are about the size of our small and are eaten by one person. In Naples, they have a “fast food” pizza called pizza portafoglio. Portafoglio is the word for “wallet,” so it means pizza that is folded like a wallet. It is sold from carts outside pizzerias.
Pizzerias in Naples also sell other fried items like calzones and arancini, so they are also called fry shops or friggitoria.
One of my cousins took us for a portafoglio pizza at Donna Sophia’s on Via Tribunali. It looks like it may be named after Sophia Loren, but besides the depiction that looks like her, I couldn’t find any evidence that she owns it. I think it’s just named after her because she sells pizza from a cart in the movie L’Oro di Napoli.
This pizza was one of my favorites in Naples. While it wasn’t the cheesiest, the crust was crispy with a good char.
–Dina Di Maio