Neighborhood Watch: Arthur Avenue in the Bronx

2013-07-12_14-00-53_343

Arthur Avenue, the Little Italy of the Bronx, is the only real Italian neighborhood left in NYC.  If you’re looking for an authentic Italian American experience, this is the place to be.  However, it’s not so easy to get to.  It’s a long, hilly walk from the subway.  Or if you take a cab, the cab driver will not know where it is.  I know cab drivers are supposed to know where to go in the boroughs, but they don’t, especially in the Bronx and Queens and sometimes, Brooklyn.  I suggest you have directions or your phone GPS on hand to assist the driver.

2013-07-12_13-39-25_839

The main strip is Arthur Avenue from East 184th Street to East 187th Street.  On East 187th Street, there’s Artuso’s Pastry, the home of the famous Pope cookies.  In case you are looking for them, the Pope cookies were made for Pope Benedict’s visit to New York and his recent resignation, but they do not have Pope cookies now.

Visit Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church.

2013-07-12_14-11-11_90

Walk west to Egidio Pastry and admire the case full of beautiful pastries.

2013-07-12_12-20-57_24

The history of the building is evident with its tin ceiling.

2013-07-12_12-25-38_856
Here, we tried a mini cannoli and a mini sfogliatelle. They were both very good, but the sfogliatelle was particularly well crafted with flaky layers.

2013-07-12_12-23-50_604
DeLillo Pastry has outdoor seating and a mighty fine cannoli with creamy ricotta filling.

2013-07-12_12-30-39_73
There are a lot of bakeries on this small strip, so if you are doing a tasting, be prepared to eat a lot or to take some home. I brought my rolling backpack so that I could easily bring things home with me.

In addition to bakeries, there are ravioli/pasta shops, seafood markets, meat markets, cheese shops, pizzerias, Italian restaurants and kitchen stores. At Marie’s, you can get dinnerware and housewares, as well as coffee, from Italy.
2013-07-12_12-37-54_57
OK, vegetarians in the crowd will not want to look at the next photo–the body of a sheep hanging in the window of a meat market.

2013-07-12_12-41-14_827

Teitel Brothers is an Italian grocery store owned by a Jewish family that has been in the neighborhood since 1915.

2013-07-12_12-43-27_501

Now this is something you don’t see anymore–a bread bakery.  Zito’s and Vesuvio’s in the city closed awhile ago.  Thank goodness Addeo’s is still here in the Bronx.

2013-07-12_12-47-40_13

Look at that bread.

2013-07-12_12-47-30_977

At Biancardi’s meat market, you can still get capuzelle, or sheep’s head.

2013-07-12_12-48-28_243

Madonia Bakery has beautiful bread and also fills cannoli to order.

2013-07-12_12-52-52_867

I got some yummy cookies for the road.

2013-07-12_16-00-37_996

In the middle of the block, there’s an indoor market, the Arthur Avenue Retail Market, with a butcher, fish and produce market as well as products from Italy and Arthur Avenue T-shirts and souvenirs.

2013-07-12_12-53-56_194

The butcher here had beef feet.  I’ve never seen these before and am not sure how Italians use them.

2013-07-12_12-54-55_40

If you’re into offal, this is the place to be.  Here’s cotenne, the pig skin I’ve written about, in the rear of this photo.

2013-07-12_12-55-01_94

Brains, anyone?

2013-07-12_12-55-04_518

OK, I definitely share the sentiment with these T-shirts.

2013-07-12_13-06-38_654

Check out Cerini Coffee, a fun store with housewares from Italy.

2013-07-12_13-11-09_418

At Morrone Pastry Shop & Café, I got a rainbow cookie cake slice and a tortoni.  Both were delicious.  (I also bought a rainbow cookie cake for my aunt’s birthday.  I froze it the day I bought it and thawed it a week later.  It was fresh, moist and delicious.)

2013-07-12_13-44-47_215

In case you thought I just had sweets, I did stop for a slice of pizza at Catania’s.

2013-07-12_13-24-58_122

What to Eat:  pastries and bread from Artuso’s, Egidio’s, DeLillo’s, Madonia’s, Addeo’s or Morrone’s; pizza from Catania’s.

Where to Shop:  Marie’s and Cerini’s for kitchen wares; the Arthur Avenue Retail Market for souvenirs, produce and Italian goods; Borgatti’s for ravioli; Randazzo’s for seafood.

What to See:  Columbus statue at East 183rd Street and Arthur Avenue, Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church on East 187th Street.

5 responses to “Neighborhood Watch: Arthur Avenue in the Bronx

  1. Pingback: Welcome2TheBronx | Arthur Avenue Gets Recognized As The New York City’s REAL Little Italy Again

  2. We usually combine a visit to the Botanical Gardens with dinner on Arthur Avenue, usually at Dominick’s. Classic, good Italian food, family-style eating. Always some new, interesting people next to you to strike up a conversation with. And there’s a place (I forgot the name) where we’ll pick up cheese, olive, breadsticks, etc.

  3. Pingback: Dina’s Guide to NYC Italian Bakeries | Hunting for the Very Best

  4. We love going to Arthur Avenue after going to the Botanical Garden as well… and also go to Dominick’s! The marketplace is must as well. So GREAT!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s